Coisas curiosas / Curious Things (4) or Bordado das Caldas da Rainha vs Punto Umbro o Portoguese

No início de 2012 comecei a fazer uma amostra de pontos com o objectivo de fazer uma oficina em Oeiras. Fui fazendo e às tantas, muito convencida da minha criatividade, comecei a fazer um centro de flor inovador! (pensava eu!!!)
In early 2012 I started embroidering a sampler with some stitches in order to give a workshop in Oeiras. I went on embroidering and then, very persuaded of my creativity, I started making a very new and unique flower center! (I thought!!!).
Qualquer coisa tendo isto como esquema. Something having this as pattern.
esquema

Muito original, não é?!
Very very original, isn’t it?!

Passava os fios, uns mais curtos outros mais compridos e depois faria uma espécie de tecelagem – o resultado é este:
I’ll do straight stitches, some shorter others longer then do a kind of weaving – the result is this:
after embroidering
Ainda não tinha acabado a amostra e eis que leio esta entrada da Mary Corbet! Claro que tive de comentar e fiquei a saber que, em inglês, o ponto tem nome e tudo: raised stem stitch (grande invenção a minha*…)
I hadn’t yet finished the sampler and voilá I read this entry from Mary Corbet! Of course I had to comment and learned that, in English, the stitch even has a name: raised stem stitch (my great invention* …).

Mary Corbet's photo

Mary Corbet’s photo


Quando escrevi este grande postal, sobre o ponto pé de flor, os seus vários nomes e formas de fazer, já me fui prevenindo na conclusão quando escrevi: – há três formas (até ver…) de fazer o ponto pé de flor;
When I wrote this great post about Stem Stitch, their different names and ways to do I was careful  when I wrote in the the conclusion: – there is three approaches (so far…) for stem stitch;
Mas há mais! Muito mais! But ther’s more! A lot more!
Nesta entrada Coisas Curisas 3 escrevi acerca da Giuseppa Federici, que me chamou a atenção para o facto do Punto Umbro o Sorbelo ser também conhecido, em Itália, por Portuguese, e também para o facto da enorme semelhança com o Bordado das Caldas da Rainha. E isso levou-me às Caldas da Rainha e a conhecer a Liseta Pereira.
This post Curious Things 3 I wrote about Giuseppa Federici, who drew my attention to the fact that the Punto Umbro o Sorbelo is also known, in Italy, as Portoguese and also to the great similarity between Punto Umbro and Caldas da Rainha 
embroidery . And those facts led me to Caldas da Rainha and meet Liseta Pereira.

Desta visita resultou este outro postal em que teço algumas considerações sobre as diferenças e as semelhanças entre as duas técnicas. É minha intenção continuar a escrever sobre este assunto, mas já percebi que tenho que passar uns dias com a Liseta para aprender mais sobre o bordado das Caldas da Rainha. E só então poderei escrever com maior segurança.
After this visit I’ve written this other post where I write about some differences and similarities between the two techniques. It is my intention to continue writing on this subject, but I realized that I have to spend a few days with Liseta to learn more about the embroidery of Caldas da Rainha. And only then I can write with greater security.
E a que propósito vem agora tudo isto? And what about all this now?

Precisamente porque no Bordado das Caldas da Rainha existe já  o Ponto Pé de Flor Suspenso!!! Tal como em Itália se fazem Le Ruote! Nunca tinha ouvido falar neste ponto que aparece no Bordado das Caldas!
Precisely because in the embroidery of Caldas da Rainha already exists Raised Stem Stitch!! Just like in Italy Le Ruote are made! I have never heard about this stitch which also belongs to the embroidery of Caldas da Rainha!

Le Ruote by Giuseppa Federici

Le Ruote by Giuseppa Federici

Em Itália e Portugal a técnica é a mesma, muito parecida mas não exatamente igual à maneira como a Mary Corbet e eu fizemos. Mas isto ficará para outro postal. Talvez após a tal visita à Liseta.
In Italy and in Portugal the technique is the same, very similar but not exactly the same way Mary Corbet and I did. But this is for another post. Maybe after a new meeting with Liseta.
*Ninguém descobre nada. Ninguém é dono de qualquer património cultural.
Tomei nota e aprendi a lição ;)
Está tudo feito, descoberto e escrito!
* Nobody invents anything. Nobody is the owner of any cultural heritage.
I have taken note and learnt the lesson ;)

It’s all done, discovered and written!

11 thoughts on “Coisas curiosas / Curious Things (4) or Bordado das Caldas da Rainha vs Punto Umbro o Portoguese

  1. Merí,
    Obviamente todos las puntadas de bordados vinieron al nuevo mundo durante el descubrimiento de América. Por lo tanto no son puntadas americanas por mas que
    estos las crean sus descubrimientos. Cada una de nosotras tenemos ideas que cuando las ponemos a prueba con aguja y hilo, salen diseños esclusivos. Es eso por lo cual tu descubriste un diseño en redondo que fortalece tus habilidades como bordadora profesional.

    • Velia, I agree with you that most of the embroidery stitches came to the Americas during the “discovery” of the new world. However, prior to the coming of the Europeans, the indigenous people were using simple embroidery stitches and weaving technique.
      If you have the opportunity to look at historic textiles, read Textiles in southwestern prehistory/ by Lynn S. Teague and Pueblo Indian Textiles by Kate Kent Peck.
      Meri is an inspiration to all embroiderers.

      Monique

      • Your comment had nothing to do with my personal comment to Merí

        • I do not agree. But, we agree that Meri is an excellent embroiderer and she is always striving to discover new embroidery horizons. It is a credit to her.
          When one posts on the internet, for better or worse ,nothing is “persona”l and one must accept ,, good or not to our liking, the consequences of our words.
          Monique

        • My dear friends Monique and Velia ! Both of you are just right. Each country embroidery has similar technically speaking. The motives are inspired mostly in the Nature: flowers, trees. leaves, animals, and so on. But each people has his unique “touch” as Monique so well knows about “New Mexico colcha” so similar in design with “Castelo Branco colcha”. But so different in threads used; the former embroidered with wool from a special sheeps from New Mexico (is it right Monique?) and the last worked with silks. Results are so different.
          The very very ancient people begin weaving I think.
          I dare adding to your comments: Most of European embroideries has many many inspiration from Oriental countries with very ancient civilizations – India, China and Japan for example. Don’t you agree?

          • Yes, I agree with you with the similarity of stiches in many countries and all over the world and each embroiderer search for new ways to manipulate the thread and needle such as you did. It is marvelous.
            My comment was to bring forth another truth. Prior to the arrival of the European to the new world, the indigenous people had their form of embroidery stitches. And, embroiderers from the new world do not claim to have invented the art of embroidery but on the contrary recognized the influence from other countries.
            My other comment about colcha stitch was not to dismiss your accomplishment but to recognize the similarity and to admire your skills. Because, if I understand how you performed the stich, I know that it is difficult to do it in the round and to do it as neatly as you did.
            My other thought is that an embroidery blog is not a platform to send little dig about embroiderers of the new world.
            The book about Castelo Branco colcha is at the center for southwest reseach waiting to be processe. I check on the progress but since the budget cut, they have not hired a new staff. I will let you know.
            En Paz
            Monique

  2. Dear Meri,
    this is very interesting!! es que the stitch on the photos you posted, looks very much like the colcha stitch embroidery of New Mexico.
    I am not quite sure that I understand the weaving technique but the earlier colcha embroidery from the colonial time in New Mexico looked like weaving.
    Those colchas were very large and completely covered with the “colcha stitch”
    Thank you for the post. Hoping to see more
    Monique

    • Please my friends! I think there is somewhere a misunderstanding. Both of you love embroideries as a matter of fact all of us :).
      I take note of your reference book.
      Soon I hope to explain how I did the center of the flower and how is made in Caldas da Rainha and Italy. Have a good weekend.

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